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Fitting the Frantz Oil Filtration system
There are some things to check before you start....
Firstly, is there sufficient space under your bonnet for the filter on its bracket? This is more of a problem with small modern front wheel drive cars, but it's generally true that underbonnet space is more densely occupied now than it was 40 years ago.
So, you need a mounting point which is solid enough for the three screws which hold the stainless steel mounting bracket to allow the weight of the filter and bracket to be taken safely, without any movement of the installation being possible.
The aim is to try and arrange the shortest, most direct route for the two pipes as possible. Some slack is necessary on the pipes near the engine to allow for some engine movement caused by the normal torque reaction 'rocking' of the engine, so that the pipes are never stretched or put into tension due to this natural movement of the engine on its mountings.
The best thing to do is to loosely assemble the bits of the kit beforehand, so you are familiar with the fittings.
Check the printed detailed instructions sheet inside the kit for details of how to assemble the actual pipe connections. Always use the special thread-sealing compound provided in the kit, for the conic 1/8 BSP brass fittings.
"We had to borrow 3 litres of oil from a lorry driver, who answered an appeal over the ship's Tannoy system! The lorry, a Scania HGV, had a bypass oil filter fitted, as it turned out"....
You will be taking the oil from either a T piece in the oil pressure sender hole, or from an L piece in the adaptor ring or 'sandwich plate' which fits under the normal spin on oil filter. This adaptor plate isn't part of the standard kit, it's an option, for use where the oil pressure switch hole is inaccessible or otherwise impractical.
You will normally be returning the oil either direct to the sump, through a special hollow self tapping bolt, on a steel sump, or on an alloy sump, a different type of hollow bolt threaded to a new hole drilled in the sump.
The other option is via the oil filler cap, which needs to be drilled for a special swivel fitting. The swivel fitting means the oil cap can still be turned for removal, with the pipe in place. (It also means you can't lose the cap in future...but DO remember to replace it!!! I checked the oil on a car while in the queue for a channel ferry, got distracted, and forgot to replace the filler cap. On parking on the car deck I noticed an oil trail, and a pool of oil under the car! We had to borrow 3 litres of oil from a lorry driver, who answered an appeal over the ship's Tannoy system! The lorry, a Scania HGV, had a bypass oil filter fitted, as it turned out.)
Make absolutely certain that the oil pipes are properly secured, so that there is no chance of them being able to contact any moving part, such as the alternator pulley, or any drive belt, also the pipes should not be anywhere near an exhaust manifold or pipe, where the oil pipe might be overheated and damaged. The oil pipes should be secured to a bulkhead, or the side wall of the engine bay with proper automotive pipe clamps, usually metal with plastic sleeves, with a screw fitting.
To make the hollow screw fitting in the steel sump, there is a special tool provided in the kit. First select a position in the side of the sump, just above the level of the oil. Make sure there's no obstruction such as a baffle plate where your hole goes...you can normally see spot welds if there is something running across the width of the sump.
Using a punch, mark your position. Now using a hammer, tap the point of your special tool into the punched mark, it will penetrate the thin steel quite easily. Knock the tool in, up to the shoulder.
Now, screw the 'hollow screw-bolt' in, so that the neoprene seal is compressed against the side of the sump, forming a perfectly oil-tight connection.
Once this is in, attach the brass 1/8bsp conic threaded L piece which best suits the run of the pipe. There's a selection in the kit, from straight, 45degree and 90degree.
These must be threaded in using the thread sealing compound in the kit, and DON'T use Loctite or anything else unless it was designed for high temperature use with oil, as a thread sealer.
The pipe from the oil pressure sender point L piece runs to the brass L piece in the centre of the bottom casting of the filter, which is the inlet, the oil then passes through a restrictor jet, which slows it down enough for the fine filtration to take place.
It rises up a central pipe to the top of the filter, then descends slowly through the densely wound long-fibre cellulose filter medium, to the outlet point.
It then passes through a mesh filter screen, then out through the outer of the two connections on the bottom of the filter, to return to the engine via the other pipe, to either the fitting you have made in the side of the sump, or to the swivel fitting in the oil filler cap.
Always check the detailed fitting sheet in the kit before fitting.
You will notice the oil runs slightly cooler after fitting the kit, this is because there's more oil in the system, but also because the Frantz is radiating heat and acting as an oil cooler. You can tell the oil is passing through the filter by testing with your hand...the casing will be very hot once the engine is up to temperature.
If, at any point after fitting, you can no longer feel the heat of oil passing through the filter, it's probably because the change is way over due, and the oil isn't flowing through the filter, and isn't being cleaned.
Stick to the scheduled filter change regime, and this will never happen.
Find out more...
News and Stuff
Fitting video
Whilst our kits are easily fitted, to make things even easier and clearer we're in the process of shooting a 'fitting video'. Check back soon!!!
Frantz Oil Filter will pay for itself
The Frantz Oil Filter will pay for itself in ten (10) oil changes or less, and can be taken from car to car, engine to engine forever.